How A Suit Should Fit - Men's Suits Fit Guide - Gentleman's Gazette

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Gentleman's Gazette
Published at : 17 Jan 2021
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00:00 Introduction

You could hear it all over the place, fit matters the most, and while I wholeheartedly agree, the problem is, it’s rarely outlined what that thoroughly means.

00: 56 Why Should You Care About Fit?

First of all, a well-fitting suit is almost as comfortable as wearing a sweater and sweatpants. Second of all, it makes you really stand out from the crowd and people will look at you and think you're really dapper but they can't pinpoint that it's a fit of your suit.

01:13 Why Does A Properly Fitting Suit Make You Look Better?

The answer is actually quite simple; a suit hides everything that's asymmetrical about your body and hides all the flaws, at the same time highlighting features such as your shoulders and your chest, giving you a natural v-shape that's very flattering and attractive.

02:08 What is a suit?

02: 49 Collar
It should fit snugly against your neck without being overly tight and it should never stand away or gap. If you have a round shoulder the way I do, chances that your jackets gap more easily are much higher than if you have a straight posture. Because of that, you always have to go to the alterations tailor or talk to your made to measure provider or tailor and make sure you get a proper fit. The problem is when you stand, most jackets look good, the issue starts when you start moving when you lift your arms and you still want that jacket collar to sit tight against your shirt collar.

03:49 Shoulder
Ideally, you want the shoulder seam on top to be just slightly extended from the bone on your shoulder. Unlike a dress shirt which ends exactly at the bone, you want it to be slightly hanging over to give you a broader look and enable a range of movement because when you have multiple layers of fabric, the outer layer always has to be a little longer to be comfortable, you want the top part at your shoulder to be smooth and not puddling.

04:56 Armholes
Most armholes in suits are too big because suits are industrially made and they want to have one size that fits it all, the problem is if you have huge armholes, it may seem like it's more comfortable but it actually isn't because as soon as you move, your entire jacket moves with you and constricts you. On the other hand, if you have a tight armhole that ends just below your armpit, you can easily move and comfortably.

05:50 Chest
When it comes to a good fit of the chest it's always easy to see because some chests are fuller and they have more fabric that drapes well and for that, it's called Drape.

07:23 Vents
Today, most jackets have side vents, they are the most flattering. Ideally, you want high long vents that end exactly where your jacket pocket ends. The last hundred years, center vents have been in and out of fashion but originally, they were meant for horseback riding so unless you wear a jacket on the back of a horse, skip it.

08:13 Length
It's very important to get it right in the first place because even though you can physically change the length of the jacket, it will always look off if you do so. The proportions will simply not work and the location of your pockets will seem off as well as the buttoning point and therefore if you encounter something that is too short or too long simply leave it behind.

10:24 Sleeves
A sleeve should always hang very nicely without any wrinkles. If you see all the wrinkles chances are the sleeve pitch is wrong which means the way and the angle the sleeve was set in, that can be fixed by a tailor but they have to be quite skilled.
#howasuitshouldfit #suitsformen #notsponsored
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